In celebration of my latest Patreon pattern release, the Sailor Collar Expansion, we continue our deep dive into the history of nautical fashion.

Although the later 1920s had seen the middy relegated to activewear, sailor styles enjoyed a resurgence in the 1930s. An evolution from the middy blouses and sets of the 1910s-20s, the 1930s saw sailor-collared one-piece dresses emerge as a fashion staple. The Telegraph Herald in 1934 declared nautical style "quite the newest Paris favorite [...] most attractive and so decidedly new," while in 1937 the The Pittsburgh Press reported "Whether at the boardwalk or at tea, any gay young thing will be smarter than smart in a sailor frock. Make it in washable silk, linen or cotton gabardine."

Sailor frocks proliferated in a rainbow of hues, and even prints - the Telegraph Herald suggested "nautical printed fabric, pastel washing cottons or pink and white candy striped seersucker" in 1934, while the 1935 Spring Sears catalogue featured offerings in maize and brown gingham; silk; colorful stripe cotton broadcloth; not to mention the amazing pink version in the opening pages.

If there was any danger of the nautical star fading, the 1936 release of the film "Follow the Fleet" sealed its popularity. Ginger Rogers' sailor suit inspired legion nautical fashions - including at least one sailor snow suit, a rare example of nautical style making a departure from its normal reserve of Spring/Summer fashion.

Home seamstresses could purchase military style trims - including Middy braid and sets comprising embroidered anchors, chevrons and stars which could be stitched onto outfits.

The 1940s and World War II brought patriotism - and military influences - to the fashion fore. "Give a fashionable salute to the navy in [a] sailor dress," suggested the Ellensburg Daily Record in August 1940. Designs for nautical daywear proliferated, though there was a return to the traditional (and patriotic) blue, white and red - never again would sailor style be the rainbow-hued fashion staple that it had been during the 1930s.

1940 seized upon the look with great gusto, taking a more wide-ranging approach to sailor style than ever before, with nautical motifs in accessories as well as clothing. In October of that year LIFE magazine ran a full feature on patriotic nautical fashions as part of a Navy-themed issue.

Sailor dresses, sweaters and hats, LIFE magazine, October 1940

In 1941 the Montreal Gazette announced that the "sailor theme is popular" in resort wear:

Sometimes it is just a sailor collar, with stars or anchors at the corners to carry out the nautical look, while again it might be an entire sailor dress, which is an outstanding favorite. At any rate the resort togs have joined the navy, and that's a preview of the regular run of styles for spring.
The sailor theme is strong in hats too, for new sailors keyed to the Gibson Girl period have as their main point that they are flat and worn posed straight on the head on top of the pompadour.

Nautical style certainly was stronger than ever, as the profusion of patterns and ready-to-wear - from princess dresses and shirtwaists to playsuits and separates - attests.

While the traditional sailor dress was most popular, playful variations on the theme were also available, including the two-tone number below left, featuring "gay contrast in the jaunty sailor collar, and godet inserts in the breezy skirt". The dress was made in "Celanese Rayon Crepe Romaine with tiny white stars applied on dark, and color scheme reversed on collar and godets" and was available in Navy, Kelly Green and Scarlet Red.

Naval style trims and buttons also continued to be popular for those making or customising their own garments. Colours have by now reverted to a traditional naval theme, with black, gold, navy, red and white.

Braids and trims in Sears catalogue, Fall 1942

However, after this burst of popularity in the early years of the decade, sailor styles start to fade from the fashion record after about 1944. Perhaps the restrictions of fabric rationing that limited skirt lengths and proscribed cuffs and trouser turn-ups also spelled the end for the fabric-hungry sailor collar? Children's sailor suits remained popular, but the nautical look wasn't to return to adult fashion in any major way until the 1950s.