In keeping with my Riviera monthly theme, let’s talk about novelty prints, playsuits and mix-and-match holiday wardrobes. I absolutely love the idea of packaged "wardrobes" of interchangeable, co-ordinated pieces, and it seems they were quite the thing in the early 50s.
The first comes from Woman's Own magazine, May 1950:
The pattern for this five-piece holiday ensemble was designed especially for us by Joy Ricardo, creator of beautiful clothes for many famous stars of stage and films. This is not just an elaborate beach outfit, for the clever mixing of the five 'separates' enables it to be worn for dinner-dance dates and for walks on the promenade.
Starting from underneath we have a strapless, uplift brassière, as brief as can be and partly hidden by an enormous bow lined in Pacific blue and white - good concealment for a small bustline, this. Then there are full, pleated shorts which look like the tiniest of skirts. There is an ingenious fastening - the two side pleats button on to the front panels. Wear the bra and shorts for sun-worshipping, deck and beach games.
Next there is a snugly-fitting top with wide straps, a deep V décolleté and a low square neckline at the back. Next comes an elegant, slim-as-a-string skirt (a refreshing change from the full skirt which has been so popular for holiday wear these last few years). It is back-buttoning, and the last button fastens at knee level for freedom of movement. The big slanting pockets stretch round to the back and stand out slightly from the hipline.
Lastly, there is the indispensable stole-cape. Joy Ricardo lines it in white to make it reversible. Wear it over your head when the sun is too strong, wear it over your shoulders when the evening wind blows chill - or wear it simply because it looks pretty.
The brilliantly coloured fabric in which the outfit is made is being sold in the Utility range. The design was originally 'for export only' and was very popular in the U.S.A.
The sets below from the Sears catalogue date from around the same time. The 4-piece set on the left, rom 1951, comprises flared skirt, bra, blouse and shorts. The 'sun bra' and skirt are in "a striking palm leaf print in shades of gold, blue and tangerine. The blouse and shorts are "solid tangerine, beautiful for blondes, brunettes and redheads, handsome with suntan." On the right, an adorably demure polka dotty wardrobe from 1952 "makes four outfits, each worth a big rave." This one was available in navy/white and red/white colourways.
Also from 1952, the 4-piece wardrobe on the left came with a reversible bra, in a "sun-kissed lime and tangerine" colour combination "to put you in the spotlight". I guess it would certainly do that! Below right, another 1952 wardrobe, this time in coloured denim with gingham, available in lime green, shrimp pink and charcoal grey colourways.
I could definitely see Midge Maisel rocking either of the sets below! The saucy polka dot set on the left is from 1953 and came in navy with white. And lastly, the epitome of atomic era print design. "Multicolour asters dance like sunbursts on white ground fine cotton broadcloth. The solid colour broadcloth ‘picks up’ the sunniest hues of the print with a choice of three delightful colour schemes." This one came in print with solid lime, charcoal grey or melon rose. From the tie-waist blouse to the detachable-strap bustier, I love it all.
I reproduced the print featured in the original 1950 Women’s Own article, and have since built up a design collection around it in two key colourways, which would be perfect for building out a weekend wardrobe.
